
Every wool coat we sell is cut and sewn by outerwear tailors in Karachi, Pakistan. Not a warehouse, not a drop-shipped catalogue. A workshop where one person cuts, another sets the shoulder, and a third presses the finished coat before it is bagged.
This page is the honest version. What our fabric actually is, how much wool is in it, the eleven stages a coat goes through, what the lengths measure in inches, and how to keep it looking new.
Most of our coats are built on a 65% wool, 35% polyester face cloth with a 100% polyester lining. We call it a wool blend on every product page because that is what it is. If a coat runs to a different composition, the product page carries its own spec, and that spec wins over anything written here.
We use a blend on purpose rather than to cut corners. Pure wool at coat weight creases hard, holds moisture, and goes shapeless at the elbow after a season of daily wear. The polyester content does three specific jobs:
The wool content is what does the work you actually feel. It traps warm air in the fibre crimp, handles damp air without feeling clammy, and gives the cloth enough body to hold a lapel roll instead of collapsing flat.
What we will not claim. We do not sell 100% virgin wool, we do not print cashmere on a label that is not cashmere, and we do not quote a temperature rating. What we will tell you is the weave, the composition and the lining, on the product page, before you buy.

Our workhorse cloths. Tight, smooth-faced, slightly brushed. They tailor cleanly and hold a pressed lapel, which is why most of our men's wool coats and long overcoats are cut from them.
A broken-twill V pattern woven into the cloth, not printed on it. Reads as texture from across a room and as pattern up close. Used on pieces like our grey herringbone blend coat and blazers.
Looser, nubbier surface with visible slubs. Softer structure, more of a jacket handle than a coat handle. Used across shorter wool jackets and women's wool coats in blazer cuts.
A wool coat is not a jacket with a longer hem. It carries more weight, spans more of the body, and shows every construction shortcut in how it hangs off the shoulder. Here is the run each coat goes through.
The roll is unwound over a light table. Slubs, weave faults and dye shading get chalked out and cut around. Faults found here cost fabric. Faults found later cost a whole coat.
Cloth rests flat so it can shrink back off the roll tension. Then the pattern is laid out. Fronts, backs, sleeves and facings are all marked on the same grain direction so the finished coat hangs straight.
Cut in short stacks, not deep ones. Deep stacks drift, and drift at the shoulder seam is what makes one sleeve sit higher than the other.
Front panels, lapels, collar stand and cuff areas get interlining pressed in under heat. This is the coat's skeleton. It is why a lapel rolls instead of folding and why a collar stands up instead of flopping.
Side seams, back seam and back vent go together first. Vents are stitched and pressed open so the coat opens cleanly when you walk and closes flat when you stand.
The stage that decides whether a coat looks bought or looks tailored. Sleeve heads are eased into the armhole so the crown is smooth with no puckering, then pressed over a ham to hold the curve.
Collar is set, under-collar trimmed, lapel roll pressed by hand. On a piece like the Shelby overcoat the sherpa collar is attached at this stage.
Welt and flap pockets are cut into finished panels, bagged out and bar-tacked at both corners where the strain lands. Buttonholes are stitched, buttons anchored with a small backing button on the reverse.
The lining is built separately, complete with its inside pockets, then joined to the shell at the facings and hem. A pleat is left at the centre back so the lining moves with you instead of pulling across the shoulders.
Steam and pressure through a set order: hem, front edges, lapel, collar, shoulders, sleeves. Wool is a fibre that responds to steam, so this stage is where a flat assembly becomes a shaped garment.
Checked against the size spec, seams pulled by hand, buttons tugged, lining smoothed. Every button is tissue-wrapped, the coat goes on a hanger and into a garment bag, and only then into the shipping box.
The parts nobody photographs are the parts that fail first. Here is what we specify, and why.
| Component | What we use | Why it matters to you |
|---|---|---|
| Face cloth | 65% wool, 35% polyester. Melton, twill, herringbone or tweed | Warmth and drape from the wool, shape recovery and colour hold from the polyester |
| Lining | 100% polyester, full body and sleeves | Slides over knitwear so the coat does not drag when you put it on. A half-lined coat grabs at the sleeve |
| Interlining | Fusible at fronts, lapels, collar stand, cuffs | Holds the lapel roll and keeps the collar standing after a full season of wear |
| Buttons | Horn-look resin, shank-mounted, backing button underneath | The backing button spreads load through the cloth instead of ripping a hole around the thread |
| Zips | Metal tooth on zip-front and detachable-vest styles | Used where a coat is opened and closed daily. Coil zips flare open at the base under coat weight |
| Pocket bags | Woven twill, bar-tacked at both corners | Bar tacks are the reason the corner does not split when you carry keys and a phone every day |
| Thread | Poly-core, colour-matched. Contrast on selected pieces | Does not go brittle with dry cleaning the way a soft cotton thread does |
| Back vent | Single centre vent on most long coats | Lets the coat open at the stride so the hem does not pull tight when you sit or climb stairs |
Length is the single decision people get wrong when buying a wool coat online, and it is not covered by your chest measurement. Work out the length you want first, then size by the chart.
| Length | Sits at | Roughly | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Short jacket | Hip | 27–30 in | Trucker and blazer cuts. Wears over a shirt or light knit, pairs with jeans, reads casual |
| Mid length | Upper thigh | 34–38 in | The everyday pick. Works over a suit jacket without the suit hem showing below the coat |
| Knee length | At or just past the knee | 38–41 in | Formal wear, commuting, real cold. Our women's double-breasted coats measure 38–41 in by size |
| Long overcoat | Below the knee | 45–46 in | Maximum coverage and the strongest silhouette. Our men's knee-length double-breasted overcoat runs 45–46 in through the size range |
Measure your chest or bust over a shirt, keep the tape level, do not pull it tight. Match that number to the chart on the product page. A men's 41–42 in chest is a Medium. A women's 37–38 in bust is a Medium.
Our wool coats are already cut with layering room. Sizing up a step to fit a sweater under it usually leaves the shoulder seam sitting halfway down your arm, and no dry cleaner can fix that.
Shoulders decide the fit on a coat, so size to your shoulders and let a tailor take the waist in. Letting a tight shoulder out is not a job worth paying for.
Oversized and drop-shoulder cuts are drafted for roughly 5'3" to 5'8". Outside that band the drop shoulder lands in the wrong place.
Longer or shorter frame? Try Tall Men, Tall Women or Petite Women. Still unsure, send us your measurements and we will name a size.
Six pieces that show the range of what the workshop builds, from a plain four-button topcoat to a three-in-one with a detachable wool vest. Product codes are listed so you can quote them to our support team.
| Code | Coat | Length | Built with | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 200626 | Armando Men's Black Mid Length Wool CoatReady to ship | Mid | Wool blend, shirt-style collar, four-button front, two outer and two inside pockets | $189 |
| 200631 | Men's Black Double Breasted Wool Overcoat | Knee, 45–46 in | 65% wool / 35% polyester, single back vent, functional cuff buttons, back belt | $189 |
| 281008 | Shelby Long Wool Men's Black Overcoat | Long | Wool blend, wide lapel with sherpa collar, single breasted, four outer and two inside pockets | $189 |
| 283105 | Darryl Men's Black Wool Overcoat with Detachable Wool Vest | Long | Wool blend, notch lapel, zip-in detachable wool vest, welt and inner pockets. Three coats in one | $249 |
| 281472 | Womens Two Pockets Double Breasted Black Wool Coat | Knee, 38–41 in | Wool blend, wide lapel, two-button double-breasted front, flap cuffs with working buttons | $179 |
| 2412820 | Womens Long Camel Oversized Wool Coat, Drop Shoulder | Long | Wool blend, relaxed drop-shoulder cut, detachable belt, soft polyester lining | $209 |
Wool is easier to look after than people expect, as long as you stop treating it like a cotton coat. Two rules cover most of it: dry clean, and never leave it wet on a hanger.
Coming from leather? The routine is different in a way that matters. Wool wants brushing and steam. Leather wants conditioning and a hard no on heat. Our Leather 101 hub covers that side, and Winter 101 covers layering both.
We make all three, so we have no reason to talk you into the wrong one. Pick on what you need the coat to do.
| Wool coat | Leather coat | Shearling | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Best at | Dry cold, formal and office wear, layering over tailoring | Wind, light rain, everyday hard wear | Deep cold. Insulation is built into the skin |
| Weight on you | Medium. Substantial without feeling heavy | Medium to heavy depending on the hide | Heaviest of the three |
| Rain | Sheds a shower, soaks through in sustained rain | Handles a shower well, needs drying properly after | Keep it out of heavy rain |
| Care | Brush, steam, dry clean seasonally | Condition, wipe, specialist clean only | Specialist clean only |
| Dress code | The most formal. Sits correctly over a suit | Smart casual through to sharp | Casual and rugged |
| Start here | Men · Women | Men · Women | Men · Women |
A blend, and we say so on every product page. Most of our coats run 65% wool with 35% polyester on the face cloth and a 100% polyester lining. The wool gives the warmth and the drape. The polyester gives shape recovery, seam strength and colour hold. We do not sell coats labelled pure wool, and we do not describe a blend as anything other than a blend.
In outerwear workshops in Karachi, Pakistan, with tailors who specialise in structured coats and formalwear. We work with the same teams season after season rather than moving between the cheapest available factory, which is how the sizing stays consistent from one coat to the next.
We sell direct and we work with our manufacturing partners without a middle layer. No retail floor space, no wholesale markup, no department store margin. The saving comes out of the distribution chain, not out of the fabric or the construction. Read more in our story.
For most winter conditions, yes, and it gets warmer with what you put under it. Wool traps warm air in the fibre and keeps working when the air is damp. What it will not do is beat down or shearling in extreme cold on its own.
If you want the warmest thing we make in wool, look at the Darryl overcoat with detachable wool vest, which zips a second layer inside. For genuinely severe cold, go to shearling.
Most sit between mid-thigh and knee, roughly 34 to 46 inches of back length depending on the style and your size. Our men's knee-length double-breasted overcoat measures 45 to 46 inches through the range. Our women's double-breasted coats measure 38 to 41 inches. Every product page carries its own measured chart, so check there rather than assuming.
Measure your chest or bust over a shirt with the tape level, then match that number to the chart on the product page. A 41 to 42 inch men's chest is a Medium. A 37 to 38 inch women's bust is a Medium. Layering room is already built into the pattern, so resist the urge to size up for a sweater. Between two sizes, size to your shoulders. Full detail in the size guide, or send us your measurements.
No. Dry clean only. A lined wool coat has a shell and a lining that shrink at different rates, so washing it warps the whole garment and there is no way back from that. Between cleans, brush it down and steam the creases out. Once or twice a season at the dry cleaner is enough.
Thirty-day returns and exchanges, and return shipping is on us. Send it back unworn with the tags on. Full detail on the returns and exchange page, and shipping timelines are here.
Not at the moment. We build to a graded size run from XS to XXXL. If you fall outside that, or you need a longer or shorter body, check Tall Men, Tall Women and Petite Women before you order.
Get it dry cleaned before it goes away, because moths go for skin oils and food traces rather than the wool itself. Store it clean on a wide hanger in a breathable cotton garment bag with cedar nearby. Never a sealed plastic cover, which traps moisture against the cloth. More seasonal detail in Winter 101.
You know what the fabric is, how the coat is put together and how long it will be on you. That is most of the risk gone. And if the fit is off, you have thirty days and free return shipping.