black tie formal

What black tie actually asks for

A dinner suit. Black or midnight navy, satin or grosgrain facing on a shawl or peak lapel, a matching stripe running down the trouser, a formal shirt and a black bow tie. Not a black suit and a black tie, which is a different outfit that people arrive in every year and immediately notice they are the only one wearing. The satin lapel and the trouser stripe are what read as black tie from across a room; without them the outfit is a dark suit. Mens tuxedos is the starting point, and tuxedo versus suit sets the two side by side.

Black tie optional, and warm weather

Black tie optional is a genuine relaxation: a dark suit with a tie is acceptable, though a dinner suit still reads better in the room. Black tie is not optional. For a summer or destination event, a white or ivory dinner jacket over black formal trousers is the traditional warm weather form and entirely correct. For autumn and winter evenings, a velvet tuxedo jacket adds texture without breaking the code.

Shirt, shoes and the rest of it

A formal shirt with a turndown or wing collar, studs or a covered placket, and double cuffs with links. Black patent or highly polished black leather shoes — brown does not belong at black tie. A black bow tie, self-tied if you can manage it, and no long tie. Keep the pocket square white and plain. 

Buying the jacket on its own? See mens tuxedo jackets.

Frequently asked questions

A dinner suit — black or midnight navy, satin or grosgrain facing on the lapel, a matching stripe on the trouser, a formal shirt and a black bow tie. Not simply a black suit and a tie.

Black tie expects a dinner suit. Black tie optional allows a dark suit with a tie as an alternative, though a dinner suit still reads better in the room.

It will get you through the door, but it will look plainer than everything around it. The satin lapel and the trouser stripe are what read as black tie from across a room.

Yes, and it is a traditional choice. Under evening light midnight navy often looks blacker than black does.

A long tie in place of a bow tie, a notch lapel dinner jacket, brown shoes, or an ordinary business suit. Black patent or highly polished black leather is the standard shoe.

A black or midnight dinner suit with a black bow tie. A white or ivory dinner jacket with black trousers works for a summer or destination wedding.