Tuxedo Jackets

Buying the jacket on its own

Most people who need black tie twice a year do not need a second pair of formal trousers. One pair of plain black dress trousers will carry several jackets, which is the practical case for buying the tuxedo jacket separately: you get variety across events without buying a full dinner suit each time. It is also the cheaper way into black tie. Worn with contrasting trousers rather than a matching pair, the same jacket becomes a dinner jacket outfit, which reads a half step less formal.

Lapel style does most of the work

Shawl lapels are the rounded, unbroken kind and read classic and slightly softer — they are the traditional choice on velvet and on white jackets. Peak lapels point upward and outward and read sharper and more formal; they also broaden the shoulder line, which suits narrower frames. Notch lapels are a suit detail and the least formal of the three. Satin or grosgrain facing is what marks the jacket as evening wear rather than a blazer, so check it is there before anything else. Tuxedo styles for broad shoulders covers the frame question.

The fit checks that matter

Shoulder seam sitting on the shoulder bone, not past it. Sleeve ending where the wrist meets the hand, with roughly half an inch of shirt cuff showing. Jacket covering the seat. Closing without strain when buttoned, and buttoned only while standing — on a two button jacket, only the top one. Everything except the shoulder is adjustable locally, so buy for the shoulders. The tuxedo fit guide has the full measurement list.

For a matching jacket and trouser set, see mens tuxedos. For textured evening jackets, see velvet tuxedo jackets.

Frequently asked questions

The formal jacket from a dinner suit: satin or grosgrain facing on a shawl or peak lapel, and usually a single button. It is worn with dress trousers, a formal shirt and a bow tie.

Shoulder seam sitting on the shoulder bone, sleeve ending where the wrist meets the hand with a little shirt cuff showing, and the jacket closing without strain when buttoned. Shoulders are the one thing a tailor cannot fix cheaply.

It should cover the seat, roughly ending where your fingers curl with your arms hanging straight. Shorter reads modern, longer reads traditional.

A bow tie is the traditional pairing. A long tie is accepted at less strict events, but it reads as a suit rather than as black tie.

Warm weather and summer evening events, worn with black formal trousers. Black or midnight is the year round choice.

Yes while standing, no while sitting. On a two button jacket, fasten only the top one.

For a full tuxedo, yes. Pairing a contrasting jacket with black formal trousers makes it a dinner jacket outfit, which is a slightly less formal look.